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It's easy to
describe the Commerce Square, also known as Palace Square (Terreiro do
Paço), in just one word: WOW! This is one of the most majestic squares
of Lisbon and was once the main maritime entrance to Lisbon. You can
still see the old marble steps leading up to Commerce Square from the
River Tagus. The name Palace Square is clearly a reference to the
Palace that was located here for 400 years, until the 1755 earthquake
that almost completely destroyed it.
On the north side, the square is centred by an impressive 19th-century
triumphal arch that leads to Rua Augusta, one of the main pedestrian
shopping areas in downtown Lisbon. The arch is decorated with statues
of historical personalities, like Vasco da Gama (Portuguese sailor) and
Marquês do Pombal (responsible for the reconstruction of Lisbon after
the earthquake).
The spacious arcaded buildings extended around three sides of the
square are now occupied by government administrative offices and some
restaurants.
Talking
about restaurants, this is also the place where Lisbon's oldest café
stands: "Martinho da Arcada" opened its doors with oil burning lamps,
it was later given gas illumination and then much later gained a
different glow with the installation of electricity. "Martinho da
Arcada" saw the big revolutions of the last two centuries and took in
clients like Bocage, Fernando Pessoa and Amália.
At the centre of
the Commerce Square, once used has a car-park and now given back to the
Lisboetas (people from Lisbon), stands the equestrian statue of King
José I, King of Portugal during the earthquake in 1755. The dark bronze
horse, depicted trampling on serpents, is often called "Black Horse
Square" by the English. The locals do not particularly care about the
horse... but who is sitting on it!
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