A Passion For Pastries

Flour, cinnamon, eggs, sugar, tradition and modernisation are some of the ingredients used to produce the delicious Portuguese pastries. In every café you enter in Lisbon, you will probably find the most mouth-watering Bola de Berlim, Pastel de Nata, or Travesseiro. During Christmas time, the Bolo Rei is present in every window show case. If you are not already a fan, Lisbon will definitely spark in you a passion for pastry. A taste of Portuguese Custard tarts The Pastéis de Nata (custard tart) can be found in almost every café or pastry store in the country; the secret, however, is where to find the best one. The first place to produce a Pastel de Nata was the Fábrica dos Pastéis de Belém (Belém Tart Factory) in 1837. In the XIXth Century, right next to the impressive Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, in the Belém area, there was a sugar refinery. As a consequence of the Liberal Revolution in 1820, in 1834 all convents in Portugal were closed down.Trying to maintain a living, a clergyman from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos started selling these delicious custard tarts in the refinery, which rapidly became known as the “pastéis de belém”. The production of these custard tarts continued in a close by shop, designated as the “Pastéis de Belém Factory”, still open today. Throughout the country, these custard tarts are known as Pastéis de Nata. Fábrica dos Pastéis de Belém The long queue during weekends is explained by the over 10,000 Pastéis de Nata being made every day by this epic “factory”. Today this is also a place where you may sit and enjoy a coffee with your Pastel de Nata (custard tart). The secret of the recipe of these tarts is held by the cooks of this factory for over 150 years. Definitely a place you cannot miss in Lisbon if you are treating yourself to the best tastes this city has to offer. Where Rua de Belém, 84-92 Telephone +351 213 637 423 Café A Brasileira It is essential to mention “A Brasileira” when one is talking about Lisbon, pastries and cafés. The epic Portuguese writer, Fernando Pessoa, used to gather here with other writers to discuss ideas or spend his afternoon. Its centric location, the friendly service and the glass counter displaying the divine pastries - mainly the Pastel de Nata; invites you into this famous Café. Where Rua Garrett, 120-122 Telephone +351 213 469 541 Pastelaria Suiça Since 1922 this pastry store has been producing some of the best Portuguese pastries. Right in the heart of the city, located in the Rossio Square, the Pastelaria Suiça has a very attractive terrace, where you can delight yourself with a tasty coffee and a wide variety of different pastries. Nowadays a huge attraction for tourists, the Pastelaria Suiça used to be a café where many Portuguese celebrities and people in the arts used to sit during the afternoons. Maria Callas and Orson Welles are some of the people who have visited it. Where Praça D. Pedro IV (Rossio) 96-104 Telephone +351 213 214 090 Try out Bolo Rei One of the most famous Portuguese cakes is the Bolo Rei (or King Cake). The first  of these cakes ever to be sold in Portugal is said to have been in the Confeitaria Nacional in Lisbon in 1870. However this tradition dates back to the Roman times. During the Roman feasts, the King of the feast had to be chosen. A fava bean used to be placed within a cake and whoever got the piece containing the fava bean would be elected King. There is also a legend that tells the story of the Three Kings of the Orient disputing  who would be the first to give baby Jesus his gift. As they could not reach an agreement, a local baker baked a cake hiding inside a fava bean. Later, the Christians would have the tradition of eating twelve Bolo Rei’s during the days between Christmas and the Epiphany. This tradition was adapted by the French Court, by Louis XIV to celebrate New Year’s day and the 6th of January. The Bolo Rei was brought to Portugal by the son of the owner of the Confeitaria Nacional, although the recipes are completely different to one another. After the French Revolution, the Bolo Rei was abolished, due to monarchical connotation attached to it. Many bakeries, however, were economically dependent on the sales of this cake, so they changed its name to Gâteau des Sans-cullotes (Sans-cullotes Cake). The same would later happen in Portugal after the establishment of the Republic in 1910. Any symbols of the old monarchy were detested at the time, particularly one with a form of a crown. Until the EU put a stop to the practice of including a gift in the Bolo Rei, this cake was a motif for various practices and jokes. Instead of placing a fava bean, some bakeries would put an enigma. Whoever guessed it would win a golden pound. Unfortunately, as the years went by, the coin became just a simple piece of metal, a symbol of the old practices. Today, pastries and bakeries secretly dispute between them which one produces the best Bolo Rei. During Christmas time, every bakery displays their Bolo Rei on their window showcase. There is no other way of finding out which one makes the best one, without trying one yourself. Confeitaria Nacional Baltazar Roiz Castanheiro opened the doors of the Confeitaria Nacional and, five generations later, it is in the hands of one of his grandchildren. The production of their pastries has been passed hand in hand for nearly two hundred years. This house claims to have been the first to bring the Bolo Rei to Portugal, holding the secret to its baking for all these years. Here you may also try the almond cake, the egg cake or the dry cakes, all a tasty experience. Where Praça da Figueira, 18B Telephone +351 213 243 000 (office), +351 213 424 470 Pastelaria Garrett This bakery kissed by the maritime breeze in Estoril is the most frequented pastry stores by the locals. It was first remodelled in 1999, maintaining its antique charm and bettering the quality of its service and food. Apart from the delicious meals it serves, the friendly and familiar atmosphere and the modern and jovial decoration, Garrett is famous for its pastries. From the strawberry tartlets and cheesecake, to the home baked bread, you are bound to leave Garrett desiring more. They claim to be one of the best houses to produce Bolo Rei, and if you want a Bolo Rei for Christmas, you should order it in advance! If you have rented a car and are enjoying a beautiful coastal drive through Estoril (just 20km outside Lisbon), it’s nearly obligatory to do a pit stop at Pastelaria Garrett. Where Avenida Nice, 54, Estoril (25km from Lisbon) Telephone +351 214 680 365 Café “A Mexicana” “A Mexicana” opened its doors in 1946 and it continues to be run by the founding family. One of its specialities is the Bolo Rei together with the chocolate eggs it makes for Easter. However the Café “A Mexicana” is also famous for the decoration of its interiors. In 1962 it was remodelled and a huge ceramic panel was made by the master Querubim Lapa that still exists today. With an outdoor terrace where you can enjoy a coffee, with frequent painting exhibitions inside, and tasty pastries for you to try, the Café is a must-do in Lisbon. Where Avenida Guerra Junqueiro, 30C Telephone +351 218 486 119 The Bolo Rei and Pastel de Nata are only a few of the Portuguese pastries that are worth trying. If you have a real passion for pastries, there are a few others that you cannot miss out on whilst you are visiting Lisbon. Pastelaria Versailles For nearly over a decade, Versailles has been one of the epic cafés of the capital. It resisted the wave of the “fast-food” concept, maintaining a special and careful treatment of its home products. Its decoration is inspired in the Art Nouveau of the 1920’s, with great mirrors, large wooden counters, ceilings with fantastic worked stucco and impressive chandeliers. The facade of the building is also memorable and has remained intact since its construction, resisting the flow of modern construction that is predominant in the area.  Where Avenida da República, 15 Telephone +351 213 546 340 Pastelaria O Careca This pastry has gained its name for its luscious palmiers and its butter croissants that melt in your mouth. Its worth a visit on any day, but a sunny one will allow you to sit outside on the terrace with a small and pleasant garden. Since 1954, Pastelaria o Careca has been producing some of the most delicious home-baked pastries in Lisbon. Where Rua Duarte Pacheco Pereira, 11D (Restelo) Telephone +351 213 010 987 Pastelaria Bénard With a classic decoration and its home-made bakery and pastry, Bénard is worth a visit. Right next to the Café A Brasileira, right in the heart of Chiado,  it has a pleasant terrace where you can enjoy a part of the life of the city centre. Where Rua Garrett, 104 Telephone +351 213 473 133 Café Nicola Although not a pastry, Café Nicola is a must-visit on the Lisbon Café scene. It was one of the most frequented cafés of the XVIIIth Century was the Café Nicola. It was opened by an Italian called Nicola Breteiro in 1787. It was a place where many debates, propaganda of opinions and the change of ideas occurred. One of the most famous clients was Manuel Maria Barbosa du Bocage, a well known Portuguese writer. It is one of the most literary cafés in Lisbon, having been a book store from 1837 to 1929. The present owners, the Albuquerque family, have maintained the Art Nouveau decoration, and this café continues to be used for book releases and for literary gatherings. Where Praça D. Pedro IV, 24/25 Telephone +351 213 460 579 Pastelaria Caneças Situated in the Cais do Sodré, this pastry store is just a few metres away from the river. With its familiar and traditional touch, the Pastelaria Caneças produces some of the most tasty pastry in town. With nearly a century of existence, it is recognised for the artistic breads that it exhibits on the window showcase. Where Rua Bernardino Costa, 36 Telephone +351 213 469 488 Times Closed Saturday and Sunday Visit our hotel guides for the best hotels and rates when you come to Lisbon: http://www.sw-hotelguide.com/